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Presentations at the IFSCC International Congress

The R&D Center of the POLA Chemical Industries, Inc. presented five academic papers at the 23rd IFSCC International Congress in Orlando.

The R&D Center of the POLA Chemical Industries, Inc. presented the following five academic papers at the 23rd IFSCC International Congress in Orlando (October 2004, in the US).  

At this international congress, a total of 73 oral presentations were presented, five of which were articles of the R&D Center of the POLA Chemical Industries. All the five studies are highly evaluated by domestic and foreign researchers. Products developed based on the technologies shown in these studies are scheduled to be launched.

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1. Development of Emulsions with High Moisture Retaining and Blocking Properties

Emulsions are composed of mainly oil and water. Basic functions of emulsion-type cosmetic products are the moisture-retaining effect, which helps to keep the skin moist, and the blocking effect, which inhibits the evaporation of moisture from the skin. Because both effects are antagonistic to each other due to emulsion characteristics, it was difficult to simultaneously improve these two actions. That is to say, when the proportion of water or water-soluble component in emulsion is increased, the moisture-retaining effect improves and the blocking effect decreases. On the other hand, when the ratio of oil in emulsion is increased, the blocking effect increases and the moisture-retaining effect decreases. As the ratio of water and oil cannot be simultaneously increased, water and oil are antagonistic to each other. To solve the problem, we focused on the emulsion membrane, a thin membrane generated after application of emulsion on the skin, a healthy stratum corneum, which is moisture rich and has a low evaporation rate of moisture. As a result, we succeeded in achieving a balance between the two effects by establishing an emulsion membrane structure similar to that of a healthy stratum corneum. Concretely, the emulsion generated by D-phase emulsification, an unconventional emulsification method, using an emulsifying agent consisting of decaglycerol monostearate, cetyl alcohol, and polyglycerol-13-polyoxybutylene-14-stearyl ether, simultaneously improved moisture-retaining and -blocking effects more in comparison with conventional emulsions. Special laser microscopy showed that particles of the new emulsion remained after its application, while those of conventional emulsions disappeared. After one-month continuous application of the new emulsion, the state of the stratum corneum (detachment of the stratified stratum corneum and regularity of stratum corneum cells)  significantly improved.

 

Skin Care Products R&D Department
Yuji Sakai

2. Good Balance of Functions and Textures of Cosmetic Products: Improved Sticky Texture at the Molecular Level

Moisture-retaining property is an important element for cosmetic products. Cosmetic products containing higher levels of moisturizing agents are stickier and not preferred by most consumers. In the present study, we assumed that the cause of stickiness generated by containing higher concentrations of moisturizing agents was that POLAr groups of molecules were exposed on the surface of the skin and that coexistence of a material that inhibits the exposure of these POLAr groups in the solution could reduce the sticky texture. In order to reduce stickiness, we started to design and examine a new material, selected copolymer molecules as the best material, and finally, using the concept of the custom-made material for a general-purpose moisturizing agent, glycerol, synthesized a new polymer, polyglycolmethacrylate-2-hydroxyethylmethacrylate-fluoroalkylacrylate-copolymer (Polymer SR). It was found that the new polymer generated a hydrophobic membrane on a surface to reduce the stickiness of glycerol without inhibiting the moisturizing effect of glycerol. In a sensory evaluation test using a lotion close to the product, the effect was confirmed after its application on the skin.

 

Skin Care Products R&D Department 
Hiroki Kudo

3. Study of Pigment Control Focusing on Elongation and Reduction of Dendrites of Melanocytes

Melanin exists in the epidermis, and it is formed by interaction between melanocytes, which synthesize melanin and keratinocytes, which receive melanin. Melanosomes synthesized in the melanocytes are transferred to keratinocytes via the dendrites of melanocytes; melanin is provided in the epidermis, and then, skin color is determined. Theoretically, if the supply of melanin to the epidermis is efficiently controlled, skin color can be made bright or dark. Using human normal melanocytes, we evaluated whether various plant extracts can make dendrites reduce or elongate. As a result, the extracts of Ophiopogon tuber and Achillea millefolium have reducing effects on dendrites, while the extract of Swertia has elongating effects. A further study revealed that the active ingredients in Ophiopogon tuber, A. millefolium, and Swertia were methylophiopogonanone B(MOPB), centaureidin, and methylswertianin, respectively. Because when MOPB and centaureidin were removed from the medium the reduced dendrites elongated, the effects of these two compounds were independent of cytotoxicity. The subsequent experiment, using a three-dimensional cultured skin model, revealed that MOPB and centaureidin inhibited pigmentation by reducing dendrites and methylswertianin- enhanced pigmentation by elongating dendrites. It is hoped that using the compounds identified in this study will lead to the development of specific cosmetic products capable of controlling skin color.

 

Skin Care Products R&D Department
Akihiro Tada

4. Development of Make-up Ingredients Using Optical Effects of Red Light

A beautiful woman in the sunset and a sensual dancer in the red light…; red light has the effect of making a target look attractive. We optically evaluated the visual effects of red light and examined how the effects are applied in makeup materials. We developed a new illuminator in order to examine the effects of wavelength of a light source on vision. The instrument, termed lighting equalizer, can emit light of a given wavelength mixed in given proportions. We generated various lights with different wavelength distributions and exposed models to the lights to evaluate visibility of the skin. We found that when reflectance of light of 600 nm or above (red light) increased 10% or more, uniformity of the skin looked to be improved. Next, we started to develop a powder capable improving only light of 600 nm or above, when it is applied on the skin. As a result of trial and error, we finally developed a red powder with hash mark-like cross section (#R). The #R having many planes and lines reflecting light strongly reflects red light in all directions and, therefore, improves reflectance of only light of 600 nm or above without decreasing luminosity and saturation when mixed with another powder.

 

Makeup Products R&D Department
Yikari Sakazaki

5. Optical Property of Skin Complexion and Development Research of Foundation Making the Skin Look Fresh

“Too” glossy faces look oily and “no”glossy faces do not look well. That is, the optical property of skin complexion (intensity and diffusion) influences determination of the texture of beauty (positive or negative). We launched a study to understand skin with sufficient moisture and texture of beautiful complexion to incorporate the effects of the texture of beautiful skin with moisture into makeup foundation. The results of optical measurement analysis and observation of microsurface topography measurement showed that the surface topography of skin that seemed fresh has regular asperity. As for its optical property, light with a low incidence angle showed low reflection intensity by diffusion, and light with a high incidence angle showed high reflection intensity by formation of a false smooth surface. We examined conditions to obtain the specific optical property of fresh skin in the makeup membrane. Then, we finally succeeded in developing a new powder with optical effects, by using spheroid powder with a narrow distribution range of particle size of 3 µm as nuclei and covering two different silicones with different refractive indexes. By combination with the powder, the effects of making skin look fresher were incorporated in foundation.

 

Makeup Products R&D Department
Hirochika Nishimura

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