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Presentations at the IFSCC International Congress

The R&D Center of the POLA Chemical Industries, Inc. presented seven academic papers at the 24th IFSCC International Congress in Osaka.

The R&D Center of the POLA Chemical Industries, Inc. presented the following seven academic papers at the 24th IFSCC International Congress in Osaka (October 17 to 19, 2006).

The seven articles presented at the congress by the POLA Chemical Industries, Inc. included four oral and three poster presentations. Only papers that passed a rigorous screening were allowed to be presented as an oral presentation. All the presentations are as follows (titles only for three poster presentations).

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1. Moisture Barrier Function of Tight Junction in the Skin and Application in Cosmetics

The stratum corneum of the epidermis is generally regarded as a primary factor responsible for skin-barrier function. However, the results of recent studies indicate that the stratum granulosum of the epidermis also functions as a barrier against moisture loss, that is to say, the stratum corneum is not alone in protecting skin. Unlike the stratum corneum, the barrier function of the stratum granulosum, especially its mechanism, remains unclear. Based on the results of the recent studies, we supposed that tight junctions (TJs), which bind cells together in the stratum granulosum, were likely to be an important regulatory factor of epidermal moisture diffusion and perspiration from the skin. The present study, by experiments with a cultured skin model, demonstrated that TJs controlled moisture diffusion between the stratum corneum and the living-cell layer, suggesting that TJs function as a significant barrier against perspiration from the skin to retain moisture in human skin. In artificially degraded skin in the cultured skin model, the damaged TJs were temporarily broken. It was also found that Coptis extract, a plant extract, was effective in repairing TJs. Our study results suggest the possibility of a new skin-care field in which activating functions of TJs in the epidermis improve the skin-barrier function and moisture-retaining ability of the epidermis.

 

Skin Research and Technology Department
Masumi Kurasawa

2. A Novel Non-Invasive Method for Assessing Interior Skin Damage Caused by Aging and Photoaging

Skin aging is caused by mainly photoaging and physiological aging. To distinguish the two types of aging, POLA has developed its own assessment method using far-red light (a kind of light by which internal skin conditions can be detected non-invasively from the skin surface). Recently, there have been various highly functional skin-care cosmetic products with a wide range of effects. This means that the importance of correctly understanding skin conditions to select appropriate skin-care products is growing. There is also increasing interest in anti-aging. The skin aging process is caused by a complex combination of physiological aging and UV photoaging. To understand skin conditions, we should distinguish both aging types and easily and accurately assess each ageing stage. Previously, only the tissue-isolation method was available for discrimination between the two types of aging factors, and a simple noninvasive method was required. In the present study, using the far-red light method, which can detect vital chemical changes, we developed a novel noninvasive method for assessment of the skin damage caused by photoaging and physiological aging. The results of an estimation using many subjects in each age group revealed that it was important to select a specific wavenumber domain of far-red light to distinguish between these two aging factors inside the skin. Accordingly, we succeeded in distinguishing between photoaging and physiological aging by principal component analysis. It was also found that protein denaturation and changes in protein quantity were involved in photoaging and physiological aging, respectively. This study made it possible for us to distinguish between photoaging and physiological aging, which were previously thought to be indistinguishable. We will apply our findings to our future product development.

 

Quality Design and Assuarance Department
Marie Kawabata

3. Improved Description of Skin Smoothness by Applying Fractal Geometry and ISO Parameter

Skin smoothness highly contributes to the apparent beauty of the skin. However, the surface profile of the skin has not been sufficiently investigated to date, and only few findings have been obtained, for example, several ISO parameters increase with age. In the present study, we performed a survey on skin smoothness. We estimated the relief of the skin of 248 Japanese women and analyzed it using ISO parameters and fractal geometry. The results showed that skin surface structure was fractal (self-similarity) and related to apparent skin smoothness. In addition, a phenomenon of “wizened skin,” skin changes with aging, was observed by the evaluation with ISO parameters. The phenomenon is poorly correlated with measurements of fractal properties and is said to be a skin condition with non-self-similarity. Multivariate analysis of the impression of skin appearance revealed that the impression of skin smoothness was determined by (1) self-similarity expressed in fractal properties and (2) non-self-similarity expressed in a wizened condition, and based on these two determinants, a skin smoothness index (SSI) was established. Considering the results, we analyzed skin applied with skin-care cosmetics for three consecutive months and found that the SSI values of the subjects increased and that their impressions of skin smoothness were improved. Therefore, it would be possible to restore apparent skin smoothness by application of skin-care and makeup materials, which can improve fractal properties and development and application of effective materials, which can improve macro non-fractal structure like wizened skin.

 

Skin Research and Technology Department
Koji Mizukoshi

4. A Nobel Water-Based Sunscreen Gel using Polymer-Zinc Oxide Composite

As sunscreen is very often used in the summer season and it is applied all over the body, sunscreen products not only with ultraviolet protection but also with a water-based fresh texture and natural appearance after application are preferred. Sunscreen gel is the best option to meet these preferences. Organic compounds, due to their high performance, have been used for ultraviolet protection. However, as these organic compounds are unstable per se, they sometimes have harmful effects on skin or their blocking effects are sometimes decreased. To solve these problems, inorganic microparticles such as titanium oxide and zinc oxide have been examined, but other problems remain; that is, these inorganic microparticles destroy gel structure because of their highly activated surface or inter-microparticle association inhibits their effects. Some studies using surface treatment have been performed to solve these challenges, but they have not shown good results. Therefore, water-based sunscreen gels containing inorganic microparticles have not been in the market. The polymer-zinc oxide composite, a high-molecular inorganic compound, developed in the present study has high ultraviolet protective effects and high water dispersibility. This composite with polymer-coated zinc oxide particles inhibits the crystal growth of zinc oxide and inter-particle association and masks the active site on the particle surface. Therefore, this has made it possible to prepare a water-based sunscreen gel, but previously, it was impossible. It provides a natural appearance after application, and a water-based fresh texture unique to water-based sunscreen gels.

 

Makeup Products R&D Department
Eiji Takahashi

5. Enhancing Facial Beauty : Diminishing Stress-Caused Forehead Wrinkles through Upper Back Massage

6. Formation of Double Layered Film to Promote Dual Functions in Skin Care Products

7. Optimizing Performance of Makeup Products by Controlling Surface Free Energy

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