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Presentations at the IFSCC International Congress

The R&D Center of the POLA Chemical Industries, Inc. presented five academic papers at the 28th IFSCC International Congress in Paris.

The R&D Center of the POLA Chemical Industries, Inc. presented the following five academic papers at the 28th IFSCC International Congress in Paris (October 27–31, 2014).

The five articles presented at the congress by the POLA Chemical Industries, Inc. included three oral and two poster presentations. Here are the five presentations.

At the 28th IFSCC Congress, the study of "Antimicrobial peptide human beta defensin-3 (hBD-3) as a key factor for acne flare-up during the premenstrual stage" won the best award in the Basic Research category (Oral).

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1. Antimicrobial peptide human beta defensin-3 (hBD-3) as a key factor for acne flare-up during the premenstrual stage (Oral Presentation)

 Premenstrual acne flare is well known, yet the precise mechanism of it is poorly nderstood. This study attempted to clarify the mechanism of premenstrual acne flare with focusing on antimicrobial peptides (AMPs) produced in human epidermis.
Female hormone progesterone, which increases drastically during luteal phase at the onset of acne flare, inhibited the expression of human beta defensin-3 (hBD-3), an AMP expressed in the epidermis, from epidermal keratinocytes. hBD-3 exhibited a strong antimicrobial activity against Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes), the causative pathogen of acne, and strengthened the skin physical barrier function of which decline gives hyper-proliferation and hyper-keratinization of epidermal keratinocytes, a pathogenic factor in acne. The reduction of hBD-3 expression by progesterone weakened the resistance against P. acnes and delayed the barrier recovery of the skin.
These results suggested that hBD-3 would be a key factor for premenstrual acne flare. The findings would allow an effective novel strategy to be developed for treating the fluctuations of skin conditions associated with the menstrual cycle such as premenstrual acne.

 

Dermatological R&D
Skin Research Department
Haruka Goto

2.Hybrid of Powder Foundation and Skincare Function (Oral Presentation)

 Powder foundation make-up products often impart an unpleasant dry feeling. This is thought to be due to a lack of moisturizing effect in conventional non-aqueous formulations and reduced occlusion resulting from sebum absorption by powders. We hypothesized that applying a lamellar phase coating containing water to a powder foundation would improve moisturization and ease sebum absorption by the urrounding powder, and solve dry feeling. Lecithin formed a lamellar phase that swelled with water and was not affected by ebum. When powders were coated with a lamellar phase using a dry process, homogeneity of the coating was not sufficient. On the other hand, using a wet process with a volatile solvent to coat the powder with a lamellar phase resulted in a homogeneous coat. Coating powders with a lamellar phase reduced sebum absorption and enhanced occlusion verified through in vitro testing. Water content on skin to which a lamellar-coated powder foundation was applied was higher compared with that on skin to which a conventional oil-coated powder foundation was applied. We used this finding to develop a new foundation product that in feel testing yielded fewer reports of dryness. In addition, when water-soluble active ingredients were enclosed in a bilayer of a lamellar phase, permeability of these materials into stratum corneum increased. Thus, we succeeded in developing an improved powder foundation through use of lamellar-coating to reducing the dry feeling commonly associated with traditional powder foundations and improve skincare function.

 

Products R&D Department
Wataru Horie

3.Development of a Formulation that Evokes Glowing Skin (Oral Presentation)

 A variety of twists and novel ideas in the design, color, shape and texturing of make-up products and cosmetics packages have been employed by cosmetics companies to raise the consumers' expectations of efficacy. However, little such attention has been given to the formulation of skin care products. Therefore, we investigated development of skin care formulations with visual characteristics and cues that enhance product efficacy through control of user expectation, creating in the mind of the consumer the image that "my skin will improve as I want it to." First, a consumer survey was conducted focusing on the relationship between "the appearance of formulation" and "the sense of expectation for efficacy" in skin care products. We discovered that a similar formulation with different appearances can evoke in consumers varying and different degrees of efficacy expectation. We also found that a conventional clear lotion failed to evoke any expectation of skin radiance. To capitalize on this discovery, we developed a lotion formulation with a luminous aurora-like appearance through application of the light interference property of lamellar liquid crystal composed of surfactants, and verified that this prototype lotion evokes the user's expectation of improvement of skin radiance. We found that appropriately fitting the formulation appearance and the user's expectation of efficacy may lead consumers to proper use of products, and could enhance the actual skin care effects.

 

Products R&D Department
Shouichirou Nishikawa

4.Nuclear-membrane dysfunctional skin wrinkle formation (Poster Presentation)

 For elucidating the mechanisms of age-related wrinkle formation, this study focused on nuclear membrane dysfunction in fibroblasts and also on the effect of mechanical stress, especially compressive stress, for mimicking human facial expression. This study showed that (1) the human skin wrinkle area was under an inflammatory conditions, (2) fibroblasts with abnormal nuclear membranes, known to be caused by aging and ultraviolet A (UVA) irradiation, induced inflammatory cytokines under mechanical stress, (3) fibroblasts with abnormal nuclear membranes deteriorated extracellular matrix and physical properties, (4) susceptible responses against compressive damage were resulted in nuclear pore dysfunction, and (5) a nuclear pore proteins abnormality caused prolonged accumulation of inflammatory nuclear factor-kappa B (NFκB) in the nuclei. This study suggested that skin response against external stimuli were altered by nuclear membrane dysfunction induced by aging and UVA irradiation. A cosmetic approach to nuclear coordination would improve several inflammatory-related skin abnormalities such as wrinkle formation, and provide new insights allowing cosmetic scientists to develop new anti-aging skincare products.

 

Dermatological R&D
Skin Research Department
Hirotaka Takeuchi

5. A new skin-brightening mechanism with focusing on unwelcome over-produced melanin-cap in keratinocytes (Poster Presentation)

 Melanin-caps in keratinocytes the basal layer of epidermis are known to be an important material for protecting nucleus from ultra-violet (UV) irradiation. On the other hand, over-produced melanin-caps are observed in the pigmentation lesion of the skin and become a factor allowing the pigmented lesion to seem darker. This study focused on the disappearance mechanism to melanin-caps in differentiated keratinocytes at the pigment lesion and attempted to make a new approach to develop new skin-brightening ingredients, which never appear in the market. As a result, with the progress of differentiation of keratinocytes, (1) melanosomes dispersed, (2) melanin-caps disappeared, and (3) the pigmented lesion seemed to be improved. As key-factors contributing to the disappearance, dynein and vesicle-associated membrane protein 1 (VAMP1) were found. Unlike conventional skin-brightening approaches that attempt to control the amount of melanin and enhance the elimination of melanin with the skin turn-over, the application of melanosome dispersing phenomenon found in this study would allow cosmetic chemists to develop new remarkable skin-brightening ingredients that were able to approach the melanin-accumulated part of the skin directly.

 

Dermatological R&D
Skin Research Department
Takahiro Miwa

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