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Presentations at the IFSCC International Congress

The R&D Center of the POLA Chemical Industries, Inc. presented six academic papers at the 29th IFSCC International Congress in Orlando.

The R&D Center of the POLA Chemical Industries, Inc. presented the following six academic papers at the 29th IFSCC International Congress in Orlando (October 30–November 2, 2016).

The six articles presented at the congress by the POLA Chemical Industries, Inc. included three oral and three poster presentations. Here are the six presentations.

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1. Subcutaneous tendon cells, a newly discovered player for improving facial sagging(Oral Presentation)

Facial sagging is an important concern among the cosmetic issues that affect people as they age.
The authors recently reported that facial sagging is caused by deterioration of the retinacula cutis (RC), which is a fibrous network structure in subcutaneous tissue.
However, the components of the RC and cells expressing RC components have not been identified, and the mechanism of RC deterioration has yet to be clarified.
The present study aimed to identify RC components and cells that produce them, and to investigate age-related changes in the RC to find possible factors contributing to RC deterioration and for developing more effective methods of counteracting facial sagging.
Histological analysis of human cheek tissue identified collagens and proteoglycans as the main components of RC.
The fibrous structure of the RC was extremely similar to that of tendons, and tendon cells that were also found within the RC might produce the main components of the RC.
The amounts of main RC components decreased with aging.
The present study showed that one cause of RC reduction was decreasing amounts of RC components produced by tendon cells.
These results indicated that tendon cells play an important role in maintaining RC structure and thus might have potential as a means of preventing facial sagging.

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Skin Research Department
Aya Sakata

2. New formulation technique to promote high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid penetrating into the skin without injection (Oral Presentation)

High molecular weight hyaluronic acid (HMHA) plays an essential role in maintaining the elasticity and moisture of human skin. However, the amount of HMHA in the skin decreases with age. Attempts have been made to supplement HMHA in the skin via topical application of HMHA-containing cosmetic products, however HMHA cannot easily permeate the skin because of its large molecular size. The use of invasive techniques (such as injections) to deliver HMHA into the skin has recently become popular in cosmetic medicine, but this carries the unavoidable risks of adverse reactions such as pain or inflammation. We have therefore been investigating the possibility of delivering HMHA into the skin by preparing tiny-particles, aiming for the establishment of a safe, worry-free, non-invasive method. We found that anionic hyaluronic acid in solution can interact with cationic high-molecular weight polymers such as poly-lysine, which results in the formation of nano-particles. We also discovered that those particles revert to their original conformation under conditions that mimic the internal environment of the skin. A model formulation containing such particles applied to human skin resulted in high permeation of HMHA. Moreover, restoration of HMHA to the original conformation was also found. This technology is applicable to other useful biopolymers such as collagen, and thus might become a replacement for conventional invasive methods.

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Products R&D Department
Ryota Hayashi

3. A technique for formulating natural/organic cosmetic emulsions for improving their sensory textures and functions (Oral Presentation)

The market for natural/organic cosmetics has recently experienced considerable worldwide growth in association with increasing environmental awareness among consumers. However, fewer organic than non-natural/non-organic cosmetic products are available, and the range of sensory textures is smaller, which means that customers are not being fully satisfied. One reason for this is that when natural or organic ingredients are the only components of cosmetics, current emulsification technology can only produce cosmetics in limited forms with sensory textures in a specific range. We attempted to develop a novel emulsification technology that would allow the preparation of fine oil-in-water emulsion particles with uniform diameter, even when the emulsifiers are natural or organic.
We mixed specific ratios of emulsifiers that form lamellar and hexagonal liquid crystals; this method made it possible to utilize any kinds of oils freely, widened the range of formulating design of natural-organic-cosmetic products, with variety of sensory textures, which are also endowed with skin functions. This technology will not only contribute to expansion of the market for natural/organic cosmetics, but it will also be applicable to other types of emulsion products and thus offer entry into new and diverse markets.

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Products R&D Department
Atsushi Nioh

4. Cell-fate-alteration-induced rejuvenation of senescent cells by manipulating long-non-coding RNA (Poster Presentation)

Cellular senescence induces a reduction of cellular activity as well as breakdown of the collagen and elastin framework surrounding cells. This results in aging at the level of organs and/or tissues such as the skin. Removing senescent cells mediates the rejuvenation of organs and/or individuals, indicating that cellular rejuvenation might effectively improve skin aging. Here, we discovered that cellular senescence in dermal fibroblasts is regulated by a non-translated, long, non-coding RNA (LncRNA).
Decreasing LINC00942 expression leads to cellular senescence mediated by changes in cell memory that are characterized by chemical modifications of histone proteins and determines the fate of cells. The temporal inhibition of LINC00942 expression notably moved cells toward senescence, suggesting that LINC00942 is involved in irreversible cellular senescence. As LINC00942 controls the fate of cells during aging, manipulating LINC00942 expression might lead to an effective approach to skin rejuvenation.

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Skin Research Department
Kazuyuki Yo

5. Basket-weave stratum corneum as a key awaking the skin physiological functions by simple emulsion-bases (Poster Presentation)

Skincare formulations can sometimes affect the physiological functions of the skin even when they do not contain any active ingredients. However, the underlying mechanism is not fully understood. The present study aimed to clarify this mechanism to create more effective skincare formulations. We found that the key to improving the physiological function of skin is to create a formulation that can mature the basket-weave structure of the stratum corneum. We established that the basket-weave stratum corneum is important not only for the barrier function of the skin, but also for its soft-focus effect that enhances the diffusion of light that enters it. The basket-weave stratum corneum is also essential for maintaining the flexibility of the stratum corneum because intercellular lipids are packed into its structure. The mechanism through which a skincare formulation can induce the formation of the basket-weave structure appears to involve the maturation process of the stratum corneum. That is, the formulation creates an environment that enhances enzymatic activities within the stratum corneum, resulting in the formation of gaps between the corneocyte layers that are then filled by lamellar lipids.
The basket-weave stratum corneum could be a key index for the design of skincare formulations with expanded and advanced effectiveness. We plan to investigate further to discover keys to the development of more effective skincare formulations other than the basket-weave stratum corneum.

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Skin Research Department
Haruka Goto

6. Development of new “sea-friendly sunscreens” of which functions were enhanced with seawater (Poster Presentation)

Protecting the skin using sunscreen products is very important when at sea and on beaches that are drenched in powerful ultraviolet (UV) light. However, a sunscreen layer on the skin is vulnerable to re-emulsification with seawater and sweat, physical forces including waves, and the chemical effects of the high salt concentration in seawater. This layer can thus easily peel from the skin surface and lose its protective effect. Therefore, seawater-resistant sunscreen products are needed with not only a conventional waterproof function but also a physically robust layer with high salt tolerance.
The present study applied Pickering emulsion with powdered particles instead of surfactants to develop a novel seawater-resistant sunscreen.
Particles, unlike surfactants, are insoluble in water and should not easily re-emulsify when applied to the skin. These properties should result in the formation of a highly waterproof layer when applied to the skin. In addition, adding the shield effect of salt to the surface charge of particles should contrarily enhance the hydrophobicity of the applied layer upon contact with seawater, and particle aggregation should further physically strengthen the layer.
This technology could realize the creation of new sunscreen products that would protect the skin from UV-irradiation in harsh environments such as the sea more effectively. The UV-protective function would be improved through favorable interaction between particles and sea salts.

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Products R&D Department
Akihiro Nakatani

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